In a new place by Liesl Pfeffer


Leipzig, Germany
February 2019

I keep a list on my phone of things I like about Germany. Here’s what I have after 10 months here.

  • The apartment windows (they open out on two different hinges, one for letting in a small draft and one to open the entire window so you can ventilate your apartment and watch the world outside whilst leaning over the sill)

  • Wurst

  • How they put a tree on a construction site to celebrate finishing the walls/foundation

  • The way they eat bread with toppings for dinner and call it Abend Brot

  • Kaffee und Kuchen in the afternoons every day if you want to

  • Only major industrialised nation to commit to phase out nuclear power after Fukushima

  • The word Feierabend and the act of enjoying Feierabend

  • No plastic bags

  • The announcement on the U-Bahn that is so much longer in German (“Bitte achten Sie auf den Abstand zwichen Zug und Bahnsteigkante”) than in English (“Mind the gap”)

Flowering trees by Liesl Pfeffer


Luang Prabang, Laos
May 2018

I really felt at home with the palms and flowering trees in Luang Prabang, they reminded me a lot of Queensland, especially the red flame trees and frangipani trees that I love so much.

Boat by Liesl Pfeffer


Luang Prabang, Laos
May 2018

We went on the river by boat and saw Luang Prabang from the water. It was quiet and gentle. We saw people fishing and washing their clothes on the riverbank.

Luang Prabang by Liesl Pfeffer


Luang Prabang, Laos
May 2018

Reaching Luang Prabang was an adventure involving several mini buses and a border crossing from Thailand, including a fairly scary drive on bad roads through mountains during a tropical thunderstorm. We arrived late afternoon and shared a moto-taxi into town with other travellers. The light was so golden and dusty as we sped through the streets in the open air. I loved Luang Prabang immediately with it’s big old french colonial houses, brown flowing river and surrounding lush green hills. .

Nan by Liesl Pfeffer


Nan, Thailand
May 2018

Our last stop in Thailand was at Nan, a lovely small town near the border with Laos. My favourite memory from Nan is when we rode bikes at dusk just after a rainstorm and puddles of water reflected the colours and lights of the streets as we flew past.

Chiang Mai by Liesl Pfeffer


Chiang Mai, Thailand
May 2018

We spent five days in sleepy-feeling Chiang Mai, eating, seeing live music, walking around the markets, having a wonderful strong massage and learning how to make some Thai dishes using galangal, lemongrass, sticky rice and ginseng.

Lopburi by Liesl Pfeffer


Lopburi, Thailand
May 2018

We caught the train to Lopburi at dawn, and watched the sun rise out the windows. We walked for a while to find a restaurant open in Lopburi, where we ate soup noodles between other sleepy-eyed people on their way to school or work. At the market we bought sticky coconut rice with corn, tiny crepes filled with shredded durian, bananas and cookies - snacks for the long train ride to Chiang Mai later that day. Then, probably still before 9am, we headed out to look for the monkeys, which is what Lopburi is famous for, because there are so many of them. They sit on cars, climb electrical wires, generally take over the whole town (one came into the restaurant and was given some fruit to eat). They scrunch their wrinkly old man faces and show off their bright pink bums. Baby monkeys cling to the backs of their parent monkeys and generally look adorable. The monkeys could tell Nico had bananas in his bag, and they went pretty nuts over him whenever they had the chance.

Ayutthaya by Liesl Pfeffer


Ayutthaya, Thailand
May 2018

We rented bikes for the day to ride between the temples at Ayutthaya, which was the capital of the kingdom from the 1400s to 1700s. Most of the temple ruins are on an island that is also a thriving city, which makes it a very different experience to other temple sites we visited, such as Angkor Wat. We watched the sun set at the last temple and the temperature finally cooled a little for our long ride back to our hostel.

The Grand Palace, Bangkok by Liesl Pfeffer


The Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand
May 2018

Where the Kings of Siam have lived until about 100 years ago, and still a working palace (though not the home of the current King). The palace is so incredible, with all the mirrored tiles and painted murals and gold details. The day we visited was about 38 degrees, and I was suffering from a new bout of food poisoning, so I mostly loped around, drenched in sweat with my back aching and no amount of water being enough to make me feel okay.

Chantaburi by Liesl Pfeffer


Chantaburi, Thailand
May 2018

Crossing the border from Cambodia to Thailand was a fun, unplanned journey that worked out perfectly. We got a share taxi from Battambang to the border at Prum, which took about two hours, then (after stopping to eat some fried bananas and rice cakes, and to change our Camdodian riels into Thai baht at a liquor store) we walked across to Thailand and applied for visas. We then jumped on the back of two motorbikes for about five minutes of fast riding, now on the left hand side of the road, and were dropped at a waiting open back minibus with bench seats, which immediately left once we had climbed in back. We were soon joined by a monk and a young man. A storm came and went as we drove through beautiful green mountains. We were then dropped in Chantaburi at the bus station, where we caught a taxi to our hotel overlooking the river.

Chantaburi is peaceful and pretty with a fast river and very old Chinese houses along the riverfront. The shops along the ground level of the houses blend public and private space. Peeking in the open doorways you see people watching tv and eating in their shops, surrounded by shrines, old clocks, incense and pictures of the old King.

Battambang by Liesl Pfeffer


Battambang, Cambodia
April 2018

Apparently the second biggest city in Cambodia, but Battambang feels a world away from Phnom Penh. It has beautiful domestic architecture and shop houses, quite a few contemporary art galleries and a lovely market to explore. We ate incredible noodles with kaffir lime leaves at the market, and a delicious corn kernel dish with teeny tiny dried shrimp and coconut milk from a street vendor. We swam in the pool at our hostel, and walked for an hour through the fields to visit a school with an incredible traditional dance program.

Siem Reap by Liesl Pfeffer


Siem Reap, Cambodia
April 2018

I cannot say a great deal about Siem Reap, because even though we stayed there for 5 nights, we only spent our evenings there after Angkor Wat closed for the day. There were some nice sides to the town, but for me, the tourists have ruined huge sections of it with their nonsense such as fish foot massages and ridiculous happy hours.

Angkor Wat by Liesl Pfeffer


Angkor Wat, Cambodia
April 2018

There’s already more than enough pictures of Angkor Wat in the world, so I won’t share many. Our three days visiting Angkor Wat were really lovely and surprisingly calm in my memory despite there being a lot of tourists there. The place is unfathomable and amazing. We got caught in a storm and spent an hour sitting inside an ancient temple watching the rain. We ate mangoes, bananas, and other fruits we don’t know the names of. We watched the sunrise and the sunset over the ruined temples, several times.

Phnom Penh by Liesl Pfeffer


Phnom Penh, Cambodia
April 2018

We spent four nights in Phnom Penh, most of them with mild food poisoning, but it wasn’t Phnom Penh’s fault. Rather our tendency to eat anything that looked delicious. I regret nothing.

Outside Kampot by Liesl Pfeffer


Kampot region, Cambodia
April 2018

We hired a motorbike and Nico drove us through dirt roads surrounded by rice fields. The drive was a bit wild after it rained all night; there was mud everywhere and we had to go slowly. A truck overtook us and splashed us head to toe with mud down our left sides. We bought a few bottles of water and washed some of the mud off ourselves, and some friendly guys on the other side of the road washed our motorbike for 2,000 riel ($0.50). We stopped for lunch at a roadside stand next to Secret Lake and ate the spiciest green papaya salad that I have ever eaten. We ate with tears pouring down our faces, constantly sipping sugar cane juice and breathing heavily. We visited a cave with green moss-covered walls and stalactites hanging from the ceiling that surrounded a 1,300 year old temple. Our guides were two local kids (literally kids) who pointed out shapes in the cave that looked like a turtle, an elephant, an alligator and a pig. We drove home at dusk, the highway full of trucks and rickshaws.

Kampot by Liesl Pfeffer


Kampot, Cambodia
April 2018

I loved our days in Kampot. It’s a smallish town with beautiful old houses, a wide river and tea plantations all around. We found a lovely small cinema that was screening films and documentaries, many of which were about Cambodia.

Kep beach by Liesl Pfeffer


Kep Beach, Cambodia
April 2018

We arrived in Kep on the last day of New Year celebrations. People had come from all around to spend the holiday at the beach, and we jumped in the ocean and swam fully and modestly dressed like everyone else, and ate intensely spicy papaya salad dotted with chopped blue crabs.